Whitman in Washington [Terence Winch]
Thomas Wilmer Dewing, Walt Whitman, 1875, chalk on paper, Smithsonian American Art Museum.
For six years I worked in the old Patent Office Building in Washington, DC, where the Smithsonian’s American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery are located. The building began its service to the people in 1840, making it one of Washington’s landmarks. I worked there as an editor from 1986 to 1992, before the renovations that were completed in 2006. In my time, the building still had the feel of the 19th century. I entered every morning through the basement, which always made me think of the catacombs—bulging, thick walls, narrow corridors, stairs that might have met the building code a hundred-plus years ago.
What really made this a special place for me was that Walt Whitman had trod these very same corridors during the Civil War, when the building became a makeshift hospital:
“Overflow casualties were housed in the Capitol, in churches, taverns, and schools, in the Georgetown prison and General Lee’s Alexandria mansion. Whitman found them lying between rows of glass display cases in the Patent Office, ‘noblest of Washington’s buildings.’ The Greek Revival shrine to American ingenuity was normally an exhibition hall for models representing ‘every kind of utensil, machine, or invention, it ever enter’d the mind of man to conceive.’ …Now it was a hospital, ‘a curious scene, especially at night when lit up. The glass cases, the beds, the forms lying there, the gallery above, and the marble pavement under foot—the suffering and fortitude to bear it in various degrees—occasionally, from some, the groan that could not be repress’d.’” —Justin Kaplan, Walt Whitman: A Life.
Old Patent Office Building, Wash. DC, ca. 1846. Library of Congress. This image dates back to the early years of photography.
“Whitmanesque” has come to mean that big-hearted, empathetic embrace of whatever life places in one’s path, that exuberant appetite for experience. Whitman’s invention of American poetry (with a co-credit to Emily Dickinson) has a lot to do with that expansive spirit, and with his frankness, whether about war or sex. He did not back down, or look away. He did not write like anyone who came before. His use of language—open, plain, direct—is the antithesis of poetic. He remains alive in his work because the work itself is so immediate. It is language with a pulse.
There’s a remarkable 1875 chalk-on-paper drawing of Whitman by Thomas Wilmer Dewing in the American Art Museum’s collection. Reproductions of it fail to capture its depth and power. When you look at the original, you almost feel like you’re face to face with Walt himself. Because of conservation concerns, the work is very rarely displayed, but I used to ask one of the curators to take it out of storage and show it to me every once in a while. One of the perks of working in a museum.
When the museums in the Patent Office building re-opened in 2006, I was delighted to find a little room in the Portrait Gallery solely devoted to Whitman—with paintings and photographs, and rare copies of his work on display. I went back a little while afterwards to further explore the Whitman room, only to discover it had been replaced. Too bad—they should have made it a permanent exhibition.
A version of this post was the first piece I ever wrote for the Best American Poetry blog, which shut down in Sept. 2025. That was on July 27, 2008. Back then, I included a sonnet I had just written after a visit to the Walt Whitman rest stop on the Jersey Turnpike on the way back from Connecticut:
Namesakes
OK. We get on 95 and drive all day.
We stop at the Walt Whitman rest stop
on the Jersey Turnpike, and the dog and I
both pee in a secret wooded area just beyond
the trash cans and parked cars. We are hurtling
through space and time, through Connecticut,
New York, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland.
O Walt—and Joyce Kilmer—your poems have earned
you Turnpike rest stops! Horrible places jammed
with anxious travelers in need of a bathroom.
I buy bacon and egg on a croissant and wash it down
with water. But these are not the worst of monuments.
Joyce could praise those leafy arms, while Walt would
love the salt of the earth in their restless wandering.
New Jersey Turnpike at the entrance to the Walt Whitman Service Area in Cherry Hill Township, Camden County, New Jersey
This was the first post I ever wrote for the erstwhile Best American Poetry blog, back on 27 July 2008. It has been edited and updated here.
©Terence
Winch
Permission
required to use any of the contents of this post.
Once again Terence has matched history with popular culture, pathos, and memory.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Grace!
DeleteThis post is a sterling example of the full scribal power of Terence Winch. He is not only one of America's most accomplished poets but also one of America's most penetrative commentators on culture. When I finished reading this entry by him today, I felt reaffirmed in the ability of prose to reach the farthest corners of consciousness and conscience. One last word springs to mind: bravissimo!
ReplyDeleteThanks for that comment, Dr. Earle.
DeleteLet me add my specific encomium for Terence's poem "Namesakes." I too have found, well, release at that Walt Whitman rest stop on the N.J. turnpike. I think even Walt himself might elect to relieve himself "in a secret wooded area" rather than the actual men's room there. I still think a small sign near it would be helpful: "Hip waders advisable."
ReplyDeleteFascinating story. You walking in Whitman's footsteps, just the way he asked us to do.
ReplyDeleteHe was always waiting up ahead. BC
Thanks, Billy. Whitman's volunteer work with those poor wounded soldiers is one of the great Corporal Works of Mercy in American literary history.
DeleteTerrific
ReplyDeleteTwo quick comments that may be of interest to some, related to Terence's engaging post and poem: 1) The portico of the Old Patent Office (now Smithsonian Portrait Gallery and American Art Museum) is modeled on the front of the Parthenon and apparently has its exact (or almost exact?) scale, though with smaller dimensions. And 2), when I worked as a reporter near Vermont Avenue and L Street, N.W., I encountered Walt Whitman's poem about watching Abraham Lincoln pass that exact intersection during the Civil War. He would be returning on horseback to the White House down Vermont Avenue from his summer retreat home, which is still standing on the grounds of the Armed Forces Retirement home at Upshur Street and Rock Creek Church Road, N.W. Whitman described Lincoln as looking sad and worn by the cares of the war each time he passed by. I forget how I figured out or maybe guessed it, but I was pretty confident that the building Whitman was occupying at the time was the same one that became the Post Pub, on the south side of L Street a few yards from Vermont Avenue. (The Washington Post was then located on 15th Street nearby, and the Post Pub was the watering hole for the journalists and other employees there.) I believe the dormered old building is still standing, though no longer the Post Pub. I used to imagine Whitman studying the face of the passing Lincoln every time I walked by the pub on the way to my bureau.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Robert.
DeleteThis is very cool. And excellent as usual, Terence. I have to say that the Service Area looks an absolute delight . . .
ReplyDeleteThanks, Martin. They have apparently renovated the site in recent years, but kept Walt's name, t.g.
Delete